Payne's Ford: Part 2

The main reason for this whole trip was of course to climb some really cool rock. I had planned on checking out Abel Tasman national park during our stay here, but it never materialized. The climbing was just that good.

The rock is featured limestone in two main areas: Payne's Ford scenic reserve and the cliffs near the ocean at Pohara. The real beauty of the area is that it has something for everyone. We climbed everything from thin friction slabs to the most overhung roofs I've ever seen. Everyone climbed harder than they had hoped.

Inga before the insecure crux of Burly by Sensitive (22). Good flashes by Ed and Greg on this one.

Ed, Greg and I eating bananas and hanging out on the Rawhide Roof (22)

Ed Barefoot at Pohara

Greg on the brutal 26, Why not?

Myself sticking the "not so mandatory dyno" on Why not?

One of the great climbs in the area is called "1080 and the letter G". The claim to fame for anyone who climbs it is that it is essentially one giant roof. The approach involves a scramble up a dirt filled gully to the base of the climb. Part of what makes this 23 so imposing is the fact that you start from a ledge with a great deal of fresh air below you. I have to give kudos to Ed for taking the first go. He Greg and I sat there for the better part of an hour looking at it and speaking in hush tones (with great reverence). As far as 23's go it isn't to bad, but those first few clips had me quivering. It's a great climb.

Ed on the sharp end

Ed Topping out on 1080

Greg starting out, just before the crux

One of the other great things about this climb is the cave about 2/3 of the way through the climb. This presents the climber with the opportunity to do something he or she likely doesn't get to do very often: hang upside down with a no-hands rest. There are perfect little grooves for your calves and places to lock you heel and toes in. While still a little intimidating, it is the most positive no hands rest I've ever seen. There is supposedly a visitor's sign-in guide in the cave but we all forgot to look. Here's Greg following Ed.

Ingrid belaying Inga on an unknown 18

Guess who, at Pohara

A couple of shots I took from above at the Bo peep Slab in Pohara, which is anything but a slab

This cool walking stick below the powerline wall

Kristen and Ingrid hiking out on our last day

Payne's Ford

Real quick, I just read an Article about this earthquake on the North Island. Read about it here if you like.

As you may know, after my second set of finals in the southern hemisphere I set out for a couple of weeks of climbing on the fantastic South Island. We started the trip in Payne's Ford, which you can find out more in the interesting links I have down and to the right.

In such a short space, the place is a sport climber's paradise. We were treated to near perfect weather (I think it rained a smidgen one night) with great camping and perfect rock. We stayed at the Hang dog climber's camp. If you are ever on the north tip of the South Island this place is a must-stop for any dirtbag. Camping is 5$, a bargain anywhere, you can take a shower for another dollar, and they ask that if you are climbing contribute 50cents per day for the bolt fund, which replaces dodgy climbing bolts. Hangdog is the kind of place I imagined the perfect vacation spot to be: filled with laid back people and where a worry hardly enters your mind.

The place was started by this guy Willie who tragically died a few years ago while being lowered. They have free bikes you can use to ride into town. The toilets have surprisingly good poetry in them (see Inga's blog. no really. It is pretty clever and not your typical bathroom graffiti) and the facility also has it's own Gravity meter...

We stayed in Scumbag Corner, a place that was well suited for our needs

Part of one of the Poems. Apparently the one in German was a bit darker...

The place has plenty of other funny quirks and great aspects. One of which is the great swimming hole a scant 5 minute walk and scramble from the climbs or the camp (there is another with a slackline over the river a short walk away from this one). To get there, walk through a gorse choked field to a ledge situated beneath a massive overhang. Slither on your hands and knees out to a sunny ledge that is complete with 2 rope swings, a cliff jump, and one badass boulder problem the likes of which you have ever seen. Acid Test is situated on a massive roof hanging over the Takaka river. It's a v4 (more like a 3 or 2) out to the roof and then it gets hard. The whole thing goes at apparently v7 and the first ascentionist apparently sent it while on acid and wearing a Walkman, thus the name. It's better without shoes on, as there are perfect little scoops for your toes. All in all, it's a great way to spend an afternoon, the only downside being the freezing water you crash into when you inevitably fall.

Ingrid starting out on Acid Test

Greg peeling off right where it gets brutal. The kicking/campusing method didn't work for him tragically...

Greg and I attempting a simultaneous jump and swing

Ed braving the swing

Back in the USA (sung in a Bruce Springsteen Voice)

Hey there people, I've been back for a little over a week now. During that time, I've been catching up with people I haven't seen in almost a year, trying (so far in vain) to find myself a new place to live, and have made a guest appearance at the Gradek Family Christmas this year. Being back is a mixed batch of feelings for me. It has been awesome spending time with friends and family, but parts of me miss the life I built for myself in New Zealand. Hopefully I'll go back soon. That said, a warm Christmas just doesn't feel natural.

I had a bit of trouble getting my luggage, as it apparently missed the flight I was on, but my mother and father picked me up in San Francisco with little difficulty. I shaved my beard off into some hideous side burns before I left Auckland but for some reason Mom and Dad pretended that they knew me in the airport. The folks took me to the Jetty in my home town of Eureka upon my arrival.

I realize most of you expect even more slacking from me, but I figured it was high time that I posted some more pictures from my recent travels. It'll be a nice trip down memory lane. Oh, and I can't wait to have an actual summer in a few months. I caught a few weeks in early March when I arrived in Auckland, but other than that I won't have experienced a real Oregon summer since the beginning of September of 2006. One last thing...I had to ride a sheep, even a fake one before I left NZ. Cheers!

At the Hamilton Gardens

Flying out tomorrow

Well, it has been a hell of an adventure, but my Aunt, Uncle and I arrived safely back in Auckland yesterday. We spent a couple of days checking out Taupo, Rotorua and the Coremandel Penninsula before returning, triumphantly. Aunty Flo and Uncle "chill" Bill are headed off to Northlands for a few days to do some scuba diving and view the Kauri forests. It's a bummer, as they make pretty awesome travel companions, and Bill has one of the most impressive reservoirs of really, really bad jokes I've ever heard. All in all, it was a great send-off for me to travel around with the people who really got me interested in traveling in the first place, so thanks Flora and Bill.

After we got back I was treated to my last Extreme Edge night here with members of the climbing club, and after that there was some pretty funny broom traversing at Owen's place.

I'm gonna play catch-up with the next few blog entries, and the friends I've made here deserve some kudos (pronounced Cue-Dahs in Kiwi) for being genuinely awesome people. They also deserve an explanation of why they need to come to the U.S. for climbing and mountain biking fun. Of course there are other important things in life...Hahahahaha! just kidding... *ahem* In all seriousness, 1000 apologies to all you readers for this blog turning into "Jake's latest climbing exploits", but it is honestly something I did a lot. Think of it as more what Jake has been up to viewed through his lens of interest. It's a great sport, sure. But I see it as a great avenue to check out some of the wild places on the planet, surround yourself with some of the coolest people around, and... of course, brag a little about your latest send. It is one of many ways of getting outside one's comfort zone, only to find it is pretty fascinating out there.

I'll end my last blog entry from this wonderful country with a few of my favorites from my recent adventures. Kia Ora

Greg, Inga and Ed on this random sofa at Pohara

Our photographer for the brutal 26 "Why Not?"

Yours truely on Acid Test

Greg pole hopping in Queenstown

Inga and I showing off our cool new Tat's. Sorry Ma.

Kristen smiling on a great trad route (can't think of the name right now)

Ingrid at Bo Peep slab (hehe... slab, if you consider a slab anything under 120 degrees)

Greg in his wetsuit at Charleston. Cheezy grin, helmet, and a #4 and #5 cam included!

Inga in the foreground, Kristen slightly ahead on the Tombstone boulder. Amazing!

The posse at the remarkables near Queenstown. Myself, Greg, Inga, Ingrid, Ed, Kristen and Suvi (from left to right)

The best international Thanksgiving I've ever had courtesy of Bill and Flora

Some folk dancing on the side of the Road in Tongariro

Cathedral Cove

Cheers everybody!