Payne's Ford: Part 2

The main reason for this whole trip was of course to climb some really cool rock. I had planned on checking out Abel Tasman national park during our stay here, but it never materialized. The climbing was just that good.

The rock is featured limestone in two main areas: Payne's Ford scenic reserve and the cliffs near the ocean at Pohara. The real beauty of the area is that it has something for everyone. We climbed everything from thin friction slabs to the most overhung roofs I've ever seen. Everyone climbed harder than they had hoped.

Inga before the insecure crux of Burly by Sensitive (22). Good flashes by Ed and Greg on this one.

Ed, Greg and I eating bananas and hanging out on the Rawhide Roof (22)

Ed Barefoot at Pohara

Greg on the brutal 26, Why not?

Myself sticking the "not so mandatory dyno" on Why not?

One of the great climbs in the area is called "1080 and the letter G". The claim to fame for anyone who climbs it is that it is essentially one giant roof. The approach involves a scramble up a dirt filled gully to the base of the climb. Part of what makes this 23 so imposing is the fact that you start from a ledge with a great deal of fresh air below you. I have to give kudos to Ed for taking the first go. He Greg and I sat there for the better part of an hour looking at it and speaking in hush tones (with great reverence). As far as 23's go it isn't to bad, but those first few clips had me quivering. It's a great climb.

Ed on the sharp end

Ed Topping out on 1080

Greg starting out, just before the crux

One of the other great things about this climb is the cave about 2/3 of the way through the climb. This presents the climber with the opportunity to do something he or she likely doesn't get to do very often: hang upside down with a no-hands rest. There are perfect little grooves for your calves and places to lock you heel and toes in. While still a little intimidating, it is the most positive no hands rest I've ever seen. There is supposedly a visitor's sign-in guide in the cave but we all forgot to look. Here's Greg following Ed.

Ingrid belaying Inga on an unknown 18

Guess who, at Pohara

A couple of shots I took from above at the Bo peep Slab in Pohara, which is anything but a slab

This cool walking stick below the powerline wall

Kristen and Ingrid hiking out on our last day