Thursday, November 29, 2007
Hanmer Springs
My South Island trip was one of the best climbing trips in years. Somehow along the way I earned the nickname Ost, or cheese in Norwegian, but that might partially date back to the last trip. We spent a full week pulling on the thuggish sport routes of Payne's ford and Pohara. Life was pretty rough. Our lives consisted of Climbing, Eating, Swimming and Sleeping. It was the responsibility of everyone to order these in descending order of preference, which proved to be quite a task. We stayed at the Hangdog's Climber's camp which is probably the best pay campsite I've ever had the pleasure of staying at. It cost 5$ a day, they had a "today's gravity" meter, some clever poetry, the best swimming holes I've ever seen with a boulder problem over water, and much more. None of us wanted to leave, as we had plans further south. While there, each of us did some pretty great climbing, and I would wager some of the coolest each of us have ever had.
Then it was over to the west coast for a couple of days, where we climbed on the wave ravaged cliffs of Charleston. We finished up in Wanaka and Queenstown pulling on schist, which I've found in the States is usually pretty crappy rock, but here was actually quite solid (you can't take it for granite *badoo-tshhh!*). We climbed everything from the thin sport routes of "the diamond" (not to be confused with the larger one in Colorado) to some tall slab climbs in the remarkable (they were) and the huge roofs and cool arete's of Wye creek. We ended up camping in a pretty sweet spot on our last night, right on the shore of one of the many stunning lakes in this area.
Then it was off to Auckland for me to meet my Aunt Flora and Uncle Bill. Packing up my things at my flat was pretty uneventful, but then it was off to the South Island once again after they arrived and got sorted. I gave a bit of a synopsis about the few days we've spent on the north island. After Wellington, we spent a couple of absolutely awesome days in Able Tasman National Park. Yesterday took the cake, as my relatives (one of whom is a technically a senior citizen!) hiked over 20 km linking the inland and coastal tracks into one big loop. Most people take 2 days to do this. I had been wondering why this park was so popular, and the golden beaches and great vistas did not disappoint. It has a kind of Mediterranean climate mixed with tropical ocean color that makes it most impressive.
We drove over Lewis Pass and gaped at some of the mountain scenery, taking our sweet time at some of the pullouts. We'll spend a day or 2 here in Hanmer, and then we'll figure out where too next. That's all for now. When I get to a better computer I'll post some pics, I owe it to my travel companions and anybody else who's followed my travels thus far. It's a bummer my stay in NZ is almost over, but it's been a great ride and I suppose it isn't going anyplace. Life is good! Kia Ora.
Monday, November 26, 2007
Howdy
Current Status:
At crappy computer in Wellington and unable to post pictures on said computer.
Synopsis:
OK, so the last few weeks is a blur of memories that happened way to fast and was over with way too soon. Our South Island trip (part 3: the Armageddon) was a smashing success filled with great climbing, a stellar supporting cast and probably the best weather one could ask for. I'll post some entries when I get a few days to rummage through the 600 or so pictures I took. Greg has thousands from his month and a half in New Zealand. Anyway I thought I'd fill my tens of fans in on what's up.
I'm zooming down the north island in my Aunt and Uncle's rental car. That's right Aunt Flo and Uncle Bill are here after their Australia trip in and around the Brisbane area. It took a couple of days for us to get out of Auckland. Before we did, we had a thanksgiving dinner near the place they were staying. It wasn't too bad, though Bill's dish left something to be desired. Then we were off to Hamilton, south of Auckland. I've been told by everybody in Auckland that Hamilton is the armpit of the universe, but the Hamilton Gardens are actually a great thing to see. The next day we did a bit of Rock climbing at Froggatt with some friends of mine. Then is was off to Taupo, and finally way down here in Wellington. We are taking the ferry this evening to Picton. More later.... Cheers everybody!
Saturday, November 3, 2007
Off to the South Island
Also in current events, my friend Greg from Corvallis is over here on a work visa for six months or so. He spent a few days here at my place checking out Auckland and planning his stay, much of which involves use of the ever important Lonely Planet guide to New Zealand. I admit my borrowed Lonely Planet guide to NZ has been an essential travel companion on my trips here. They have one for the USA, and it is almost the size of a dictionary. Anyways, I thoroughly recommend checking out Greg's blog, also linked on the right side of the page. It's full of great pictures of his first few weeks here, and provides some insightful commentary on what it's like to spend almost a week in Auckland. I sadly was unable to spend much time with him, but my landlord the professor took him on a nice drive up to Mt. Eden.
After my last final finishes at 12:30pm Monday morning, I'm catching a plane with flight with Inga down to Nelson. Greg will be meeting us there, and we'll be headed to the Hang Dog Campground at the Payne's Ford climbing area. It's supposed to be some of the best sport cragging in the country, and is home to some of the most thuggish routes on the south island. After they get done with their prospective exams, my friends and fellow climbing club mates Ingrid, Kristin, Ed and Suvi will start to trickle in as well. I'm hoping to get up "Dave's Arete" and "Responsible Lunges" (24 and 25, respectively). The plan is after a week in Payne's (5$ camping, you can't beat that) we'll work our way down to Queenstown, where Ed and I will be flying out of first on the 20th of November. On our way down there, everyone is hoping to do some sea cliff crack climbing at this place called Charleston on the West coast (weather permitting). It's supposed to have some fun wide cracks. The climb I want to do in particular is called "Shark's Breakfast" (18). It supposedly traverses above a wave ravaged cove of water called the Pit of Doom. Sounds fun right?
In Queenstown, there is pretty good climbing with some multipitch potential. I'd also like to do some hiking while we are down there, as it is something Victoria and I missed out on when we blasted our way through there in the middle of the night. Abel Tasman looks to have some really great tramping too, so the opportunities for some nice views and fresh air should be limitless.
Other news: I went on my last mt. bike ride in New Zealand yesterday. Andrew (same dude who thought it'd be a good idea to go caving in Whanganui bay.... Actually it's the same dude who wore shorts to Ruapehu in the late fall... but that's a whole 'nother story) treated me with a ride in a place I've never ridden before, called Riverhead. It had just rained the night, err week before so the trails had some of the biggest mud pits I've ever seen, complete with a sulfurous reek and annoying motor bike riders. It was awesome, and we got the bikes nice and muddy to. I got to ride his cool full suspension as well. For a single speeder like myself, it was like driving a Cadillac with power windows (and a chain steering wheel). Amazingly, Andrew goes Mt. biking without a bike rack, here's a shot of our bikes stuffed into the back of his wagon.
Speaking of last times, I also did my last Yoga night and my last bit of Mt. Eden quarry climbing. We have a great Yoga studio run by the Hare Krishnas here close to campus. For 12$, you get an hour and a half of Yoga and meditation followed by a dank (adj: Term used frequently by hippies and stoners for something of high quality) vegetarian meal. For the record, I like meat... but this food is so good! As for the quarry, I've posted a couple of entries about it already, but it is a pretty freakin' cool climbing area to have in a major metropolitan area. Fun thin gear!
Greg belayed by Owen on a sweet overhung 18
Inga being cheered on by the peanut gallery
Anyhow, I give my regards to all you readers, and I'll post something around the 2oth when I get back to Auckland. After that, my Uncle Bill and Aunt Flossy (Flora, she'll probably kill me for calling her Flossy...) are arriving for some more fun-packed adventure on November 22. I can't wait. Cheers!
Monday, October 29, 2007
Auckland University
The Graduate student's building, likewise is gorgeous. It has an older charm to it, as the stairs creak when you ascend them, and it is made of wood unlike the brick, stone and concrete construction of the rest of campus. Note to prospective PhD and Master's students: they seem to treat their slaves.. imeangraduatestudents pretty well here. There are lots of opportunities for research and the lecturers have been some of the best I've ever had.

Like any University, the stuff visitors rarely see isn't the most aesthetic environment. My locker is deep in the underground under the Information Commons. Next to the entrance, some pipes burst months ago from one of the restaurant upstairs and there have been some fuzzy civilizations growing on the ground ever since. The area where I park my bike is littered with broken glass and is a minefield for my tires. I've never considered myself a city boy, but I've learn to accommodate this as part of my daily routine. I've never been to Times Square and it looks awesome, but I'm sure nearby lies a seedy ally filled with garbage and god knows what else. But hey, it would still be worth it.
The real plus of this campus is having Albert Park right next to it. It's a great place to go bask in the sun, though not for too long as Auckland appears to have trade restrictions on ozone. The park has some completely awesome fig trees (involved in a biology lab of mine recently) that I'll have to take some pictures of for you guys. Some climbing club members and I have set up a slack line there a few times. We're pretty lucky to have something like this this close to downtown and the high rises.
Behind the clocktower
Albert Park
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
A quick deviation from studying

Surprisingly, the Whanganui Bay rock climbing guide identifies this hole as an actual climb, and Andrew had his heart set on it. Apparantly it goes down 40 meters and as we all later dubbed it..."is a physical 15" (5.6 or so). Andrew didn't have me lower him the whole 40 meters, but he gets major style points for just even attempting it. We wrapped a sling around a horn and I backed myself up by attaching my safety to a tree. Then, after some nervous jokes I lowered him not-so-quickly (we are talking tens of millimeters per minute here, so as not to dislodge anything from the ominous walls) into the hole. He chimneyed his way out in a timely fashion, with a giant grin on his face. Probably the funniest belay I've ever given in my life. Many "Predator" and "The Descent" movie quotes were uttered up at base camp while Andrew was down there fighting half-orcs (or something).


all photos courtesy of Andrew Baddeley
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Whanganui Bay pictures
Inga's Pics


