Payne's Ford: Part 2

The main reason for this whole trip was of course to climb some really cool rock. I had planned on checking out Abel Tasman national park during our stay here, but it never materialized. The climbing was just that good.

The rock is featured limestone in two main areas: Payne's Ford scenic reserve and the cliffs near the ocean at Pohara. The real beauty of the area is that it has something for everyone. We climbed everything from thin friction slabs to the most overhung roofs I've ever seen. Everyone climbed harder than they had hoped.

Inga before the insecure crux of Burly by Sensitive (22). Good flashes by Ed and Greg on this one.

Ed, Greg and I eating bananas and hanging out on the Rawhide Roof (22)

Ed Barefoot at Pohara

Greg on the brutal 26, Why not?

Myself sticking the "not so mandatory dyno" on Why not?

One of the great climbs in the area is called "1080 and the letter G". The claim to fame for anyone who climbs it is that it is essentially one giant roof. The approach involves a scramble up a dirt filled gully to the base of the climb. Part of what makes this 23 so imposing is the fact that you start from a ledge with a great deal of fresh air below you. I have to give kudos to Ed for taking the first go. He Greg and I sat there for the better part of an hour looking at it and speaking in hush tones (with great reverence). As far as 23's go it isn't to bad, but those first few clips had me quivering. It's a great climb.

Ed on the sharp end

Ed Topping out on 1080

Greg starting out, just before the crux

One of the other great things about this climb is the cave about 2/3 of the way through the climb. This presents the climber with the opportunity to do something he or she likely doesn't get to do very often: hang upside down with a no-hands rest. There are perfect little grooves for your calves and places to lock you heel and toes in. While still a little intimidating, it is the most positive no hands rest I've ever seen. There is supposedly a visitor's sign-in guide in the cave but we all forgot to look. Here's Greg following Ed.

Ingrid belaying Inga on an unknown 18

Guess who, at Pohara

A couple of shots I took from above at the Bo peep Slab in Pohara, which is anything but a slab

This cool walking stick below the powerline wall

Kristen and Ingrid hiking out on our last day

Payne's Ford

Real quick, I just read an Article about this earthquake on the North Island. Read about it here if you like.

As you may know, after my second set of finals in the southern hemisphere I set out for a couple of weeks of climbing on the fantastic South Island. We started the trip in Payne's Ford, which you can find out more in the interesting links I have down and to the right.

In such a short space, the place is a sport climber's paradise. We were treated to near perfect weather (I think it rained a smidgen one night) with great camping and perfect rock. We stayed at the Hang dog climber's camp. If you are ever on the north tip of the South Island this place is a must-stop for any dirtbag. Camping is 5$, a bargain anywhere, you can take a shower for another dollar, and they ask that if you are climbing contribute 50cents per day for the bolt fund, which replaces dodgy climbing bolts. Hangdog is the kind of place I imagined the perfect vacation spot to be: filled with laid back people and where a worry hardly enters your mind.

The place was started by this guy Willie who tragically died a few years ago while being lowered. They have free bikes you can use to ride into town. The toilets have surprisingly good poetry in them (see Inga's blog. no really. It is pretty clever and not your typical bathroom graffiti) and the facility also has it's own Gravity meter...

We stayed in Scumbag Corner, a place that was well suited for our needs

Part of one of the Poems. Apparently the one in German was a bit darker...

The place has plenty of other funny quirks and great aspects. One of which is the great swimming hole a scant 5 minute walk and scramble from the climbs or the camp (there is another with a slackline over the river a short walk away from this one). To get there, walk through a gorse choked field to a ledge situated beneath a massive overhang. Slither on your hands and knees out to a sunny ledge that is complete with 2 rope swings, a cliff jump, and one badass boulder problem the likes of which you have ever seen. Acid Test is situated on a massive roof hanging over the Takaka river. It's a v4 (more like a 3 or 2) out to the roof and then it gets hard. The whole thing goes at apparently v7 and the first ascentionist apparently sent it while on acid and wearing a Walkman, thus the name. It's better without shoes on, as there are perfect little scoops for your toes. All in all, it's a great way to spend an afternoon, the only downside being the freezing water you crash into when you inevitably fall.

Ingrid starting out on Acid Test

Greg peeling off right where it gets brutal. The kicking/campusing method didn't work for him tragically...

Greg and I attempting a simultaneous jump and swing

Ed braving the swing

Back in the USA (sung in a Bruce Springsteen Voice)

Hey there people, I've been back for a little over a week now. During that time, I've been catching up with people I haven't seen in almost a year, trying (so far in vain) to find myself a new place to live, and have made a guest appearance at the Gradek Family Christmas this year. Being back is a mixed batch of feelings for me. It has been awesome spending time with friends and family, but parts of me miss the life I built for myself in New Zealand. Hopefully I'll go back soon. That said, a warm Christmas just doesn't feel natural.

I had a bit of trouble getting my luggage, as it apparently missed the flight I was on, but my mother and father picked me up in San Francisco with little difficulty. I shaved my beard off into some hideous side burns before I left Auckland but for some reason Mom and Dad pretended that they knew me in the airport. The folks took me to the Jetty in my home town of Eureka upon my arrival.

I realize most of you expect even more slacking from me, but I figured it was high time that I posted some more pictures from my recent travels. It'll be a nice trip down memory lane. Oh, and I can't wait to have an actual summer in a few months. I caught a few weeks in early March when I arrived in Auckland, but other than that I won't have experienced a real Oregon summer since the beginning of September of 2006. One last thing...I had to ride a sheep, even a fake one before I left NZ. Cheers!

At the Hamilton Gardens

Flying out tomorrow

Well, it has been a hell of an adventure, but my Aunt, Uncle and I arrived safely back in Auckland yesterday. We spent a couple of days checking out Taupo, Rotorua and the Coremandel Penninsula before returning, triumphantly. Aunty Flo and Uncle "chill" Bill are headed off to Northlands for a few days to do some scuba diving and view the Kauri forests. It's a bummer, as they make pretty awesome travel companions, and Bill has one of the most impressive reservoirs of really, really bad jokes I've ever heard. All in all, it was a great send-off for me to travel around with the people who really got me interested in traveling in the first place, so thanks Flora and Bill.

After we got back I was treated to my last Extreme Edge night here with members of the climbing club, and after that there was some pretty funny broom traversing at Owen's place.

I'm gonna play catch-up with the next few blog entries, and the friends I've made here deserve some kudos (pronounced Cue-Dahs in Kiwi) for being genuinely awesome people. They also deserve an explanation of why they need to come to the U.S. for climbing and mountain biking fun. Of course there are other important things in life...Hahahahaha! just kidding... *ahem* In all seriousness, 1000 apologies to all you readers for this blog turning into "Jake's latest climbing exploits", but it is honestly something I did a lot. Think of it as more what Jake has been up to viewed through his lens of interest. It's a great sport, sure. But I see it as a great avenue to check out some of the wild places on the planet, surround yourself with some of the coolest people around, and... of course, brag a little about your latest send. It is one of many ways of getting outside one's comfort zone, only to find it is pretty fascinating out there.

I'll end my last blog entry from this wonderful country with a few of my favorites from my recent adventures. Kia Ora

Greg, Inga and Ed on this random sofa at Pohara

Our photographer for the brutal 26 "Why Not?"

Yours truely on Acid Test

Greg pole hopping in Queenstown

Inga and I showing off our cool new Tat's. Sorry Ma.

Kristen smiling on a great trad route (can't think of the name right now)

Ingrid at Bo Peep slab (hehe... slab, if you consider a slab anything under 120 degrees)

Greg in his wetsuit at Charleston. Cheezy grin, helmet, and a #4 and #5 cam included!

Inga in the foreground, Kristen slightly ahead on the Tombstone boulder. Amazing!

The posse at the remarkables near Queenstown. Myself, Greg, Inga, Ingrid, Ed, Kristen and Suvi (from left to right)

The best international Thanksgiving I've ever had courtesy of Bill and Flora

Some folk dancing on the side of the Road in Tongariro

Cathedral Cove

Cheers everybody!

Hanmer Springs

Hey everybody! We've made it to Hanmer springs which is about 100 km or so north of Christchurch. The place is supposed to have some killer (read: good in NorthernCal) hot pools which rival those on the north island. I'm slacking big time on posting stuff for the blog from my last South Island excursion, but if it is going to be done it should be done right, and it will take me hours to rummage through all my pictures. So I'll make this one a summary of what's happened for now.



My South Island trip was one of the best climbing trips in years. Somehow along the way I earned the nickname Ost, or cheese in Norwegian, but that might partially date back to the last trip. We spent a full week pulling on the thuggish sport routes of Payne's ford and Pohara. Life was pretty rough. Our lives consisted of Climbing, Eating, Swimming and Sleeping. It was the responsibility of everyone to order these in descending order of preference, which proved to be quite a task. We stayed at the Hangdog's Climber's camp which is probably the best pay campsite I've ever had the pleasure of staying at. It cost 5$ a day, they had a "today's gravity" meter, some clever poetry, the best swimming holes I've ever seen with a boulder problem over water, and much more. None of us wanted to leave, as we had plans further south. While there, each of us did some pretty great climbing, and I would wager some of the coolest each of us have ever had.

Then it was over to the west coast for a couple of days, where we climbed on the wave ravaged cliffs of Charleston. We finished up in Wanaka and Queenstown pulling on schist, which I've found in the States is usually pretty crappy rock, but here was actually quite solid (you can't take it for granite *badoo-tshhh!*). We climbed everything from the thin sport routes of "the diamond" (not to be confused with the larger one in Colorado) to some tall slab climbs in the remarkable (they were) and the huge roofs and cool arete's of Wye creek. We ended up camping in a pretty sweet spot on our last night, right on the shore of one of the many stunning lakes in this area.

Then it was off to Auckland for me to meet my Aunt Flora and Uncle Bill. Packing up my things at my flat was pretty uneventful, but then it was off to the South Island once again after they arrived and got sorted. I gave a bit of a synopsis about the few days we've spent on the north island. After Wellington, we spent a couple of absolutely awesome days in Able Tasman National Park. Yesterday took the cake, as my relatives (one of whom is a technically a senior citizen!) hiked over 20 km linking the inland and coastal tracks into one big loop. Most people take 2 days to do this. I had been wondering why this park was so popular, and the golden beaches and great vistas did not disappoint. It has a kind of Mediterranean climate mixed with tropical ocean color that makes it most impressive.

We drove over Lewis Pass and gaped at some of the mountain scenery, taking our sweet time at some of the pullouts. We'll spend a day or 2 here in Hanmer, and then we'll figure out where too next. That's all for now. When I get to a better computer I'll post some pics, I owe it to my travel companions and anybody else who's followed my travels thus far. It's a bummer my stay in NZ is almost over, but it's been a great ride and I suppose it isn't going anyplace. Life is good! Kia Ora.

Howdy

Name: Jake Gradek
Current Status:
At crappy computer in Wellington and unable to post pictures on said computer.
Synopsis:
OK, so the last few weeks is a blur of memories that happened way to fast and was over with way too soon. Our South Island trip (part 3: the Armageddon) was a smashing success filled with great climbing, a stellar supporting cast and probably the best weather one could ask for. I'll post some entries when I get a few days to rummage through the 600 or so pictures I took. Greg has thousands from his month and a half in New Zealand. Anyway I thought I'd fill my tens of fans in on what's up.

I'm zooming down the north island in my Aunt and Uncle's rental car. That's right Aunt Flo and Uncle Bill are here after their Australia trip in and around the Brisbane area. It took a couple of days for us to get out of Auckland. Before we did, we had a thanksgiving dinner near the place they were staying. It wasn't too bad, though Bill's dish left something to be desired. Then we were off to Hamilton, south of Auckland. I've been told by everybody in Auckland that Hamilton is the armpit of the universe, but the Hamilton Gardens are actually a great thing to see. The next day we did a bit of Rock climbing at Froggatt with some friends of mine. Then is was off to Taupo, and finally way down here in Wellington. We are taking the ferry this evening to Picton. More later.... Cheers everybody!

Off to the South Island

This will be the third time visiting the South Island, and as they say, third time is the charm. Though, it will honestly be tough to beat the last two times I've been there. Let's see, what's new? I've been wading through old exams and trying to decipher my own chick-scratch notes for the past few weeks. I feel they've gone alright, and I have one more to do tomorrow. I shouldn't feel overworked though, some of the law majors I know have Final Exams that are worth 100% of their grade for a year.


Also in current events, my friend Greg from Corvallis is over here on a work visa for six months or so. He spent a few days here at my place checking out Auckland and planning his stay, much of which involves use of the ever important Lonely Planet guide to New Zealand. I admit my borrowed Lonely Planet guide to NZ has been an essential travel companion on my trips here. They have one for the USA, and it is almost the size of a dictionary. Anyways, I thoroughly recommend checking out Greg's blog, also linked on the right side of the page. It's full of great pictures of his first few weeks here, and provides some insightful commentary on what it's like to spend almost a week in Auckland. I sadly was unable to spend much time with him, but my landlord the professor took him on a nice drive up to Mt. Eden.


After my last final finishes at 12:30pm Monday morning, I'm catching a plane with flight with Inga down to Nelson. Greg will be meeting us there, and we'll be headed to the Hang Dog Campground at the Payne's Ford climbing area. It's supposed to be some of the best sport cragging in the country, and is home to some of the most thuggish routes on the south island. After they get done with their prospective exams, my friends and fellow climbing club mates Ingrid, Kristin, Ed and Suvi will start to trickle in as well. I'm hoping to get up "Dave's Arete" and "Responsible Lunges" (24 and 25, respectively). The plan is after a week in Payne's (5$ camping, you can't beat that) we'll work our way down to Queenstown, where Ed and I will be flying out of first on the 20th of November. On our way down there, everyone is hoping to do some sea cliff crack climbing at this place called Charleston on the West coast (weather permitting). It's supposed to have some fun wide cracks. The climb I want to do in particular is called "Shark's Breakfast" (18). It supposedly traverses above a wave ravaged cove of water called the Pit of Doom. Sounds fun right?


In Queenstown, there is pretty good climbing with some multipitch potential. I'd also like to do some hiking while we are down there, as it is something Victoria and I missed out on when we blasted our way through there in the middle of the night. Abel Tasman looks to have some really great tramping too, so the opportunities for some nice views and fresh air should be limitless.


Other news: I went on my last mt. bike ride in New Zealand yesterday. Andrew (same dude who thought it'd be a good idea to go caving in Whanganui bay.... Actually it's the same dude who wore shorts to Ruapehu in the late fall... but that's a whole 'nother story) treated me with a ride in a place I've never ridden before, called Riverhead. It had just rained the night, err week before so the trails had some of the biggest mud pits I've ever seen, complete with a sulfurous reek and annoying motor bike riders. It was awesome, and we got the bikes nice and muddy to. I got to ride his cool full suspension as well. For a single speeder like myself, it was like driving a Cadillac with power windows (and a chain steering wheel). Amazingly, Andrew goes Mt. biking without a bike rack, here's a shot of our bikes stuffed into the back of his wagon.

Speaking of last times, I also did my last Yoga night and my last bit of Mt. Eden quarry climbing. We have a great Yoga studio run by the Hare Krishnas here close to campus. For 12$, you get an hour and a half of Yoga and meditation followed by a dank (adj: Term used frequently by hippies and stoners for something of high quality) vegetarian meal. For the record, I like meat... but this food is so good! As for the quarry, I've posted a couple of entries about it already, but it is a pretty freakin' cool climbing area to have in a major metropolitan area. Fun thin gear!

The Quarry

Greg belayed by Owen on a sweet overhung 18

Owen on a thin 19

Inga being cheered on by the peanut gallery

Anyhow, I give my regards to all you readers, and I'll post something around the 2oth when I get back to Auckland. After that, my Uncle Bill and Aunt Flossy (Flora, she'll probably kill me for calling her Flossy...) are arriving for some more fun-packed adventure on November 22. I can't wait. Cheers!

Auckland University

The University of Auckland is for the most part a massive concrete jungle in the heart of Auckland. There are, however, a smattering of pretty buildings through out the campus, and the Clocktower (pictured below) is just downright beautiful. Just like the memorial Union at OSU, they look like they tried to go the extra mile with this one. I've been wanting to boulder the sides of it for months now, but word has it security has it locked down tighter than ______(insert colorful colloquialism) __________.

The Graduate student's building, likewise is gorgeous. It has an older charm to it, as the stairs creak when you ascend them, and it is made of wood unlike the brick, stone and concrete construction of the rest of campus. Note to prospective PhD and Master's students: they seem to treat their slaves.. imeangraduatestudents pretty well here. There are lots of opportunities for research and the lecturers have been some of the best I've ever had.

Like any University, the stuff visitors rarely see isn't the most aesthetic environment. My locker is deep in the underground under the Information Commons. Next to the entrance, some pipes burst months ago from one of the restaurant upstairs and there have been some fuzzy civilizations growing on the ground ever since. The area where I park my bike is littered with broken glass and is a minefield for my tires. I've never considered myself a city boy, but I've learn to accommodate this as part of my daily routine. I've never been to Times Square and it looks awesome, but I'm sure nearby lies a seedy ally filled with garbage and god knows what else. But hey, it would still be worth it.

The real plus of this campus is having Albert Park right next to it. It's a great place to go bask in the sun, though not for too long as Auckland appears to have trade restrictions on ozone. The park has some completely awesome fig trees (involved in a biology lab of mine recently) that I'll have to take some pictures of for you guys. Some climbing club members and I have set up a slack line there a few times. We're pretty lucky to have something like this this close to downtown and the high rises.

Behind the clocktower

Albert Park

A quick deviation from studying

I needed to write this otherwise it'd be January before I posted....

If you ever find yourself in Whanganui Bay on the western shores of Lake Taupo, you may just happen across a climbing area called The Plateau. Imagine your astonishment (no really. imagine it.) as you are gazing up at a featureless overhung 30 and you notice a dirty, weta infested hole in the ground between a detached column and the main wall. Choose your own adventure: do you a) keep walking and climb the gorgeous 18 crack further on, or do you b) willfully have a mate lower you into the spider web choked abyss and attempt to climb back out? My friend Andrew chose option B.

Surprisingly, the Whanganui Bay rock climbing guide identifies this hole as an actual climb, and Andrew had his heart set on it. Apparantly it goes down 40 meters and as we all later dubbed it..."is a physical 15" (5.6 or so). Andrew didn't have me lower him the whole 40 meters, but he gets major style points for just even attempting it. We wrapped a sling around a horn and I backed myself up by attaching my safety to a tree. Then, after some nervous jokes I lowered him not-so-quickly (we are talking tens of millimeters per minute here, so as not to dislodge anything from the ominous walls) into the hole. He chimneyed his way out in a timely fashion, with a giant grin on his face. Probably the funniest belay I've ever given in my life. Many "Predator" and "The Descent" movie quotes were uttered up at base camp while Andrew was down there fighting half-orcs (or something).

all photos courtesy of Andrew Baddeley